Vivedino T-Rex 3 All Metal Hot End Upgrade
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Summary:
The stock T-Rex 3 comes with a heat break lined with PTFE tubing, which quickly breaks down over time, especially when running at 250C as you would for filaments like nylon or PETG. This is a guide to replacing that heat break with an all metal heat break to eliminate the problems caused when the stock Capricorn tube deforms. The whole process took me about 10 minutes, and I was taking pictures along the way.
Note that an all-metal heat break can cause problems with PLA if you don't know what you are doing. Most importantly, you need to lower your retraction settings to 2mm or less. Increase your print temperature to about 210C on PLA. Last, season your hot end with a few drops of olive oil (I just drop them right on the filament as it enters the extruder) before starting your first couple of prints. Lots of debate on this seasoning tip, but I've been doing this for 5 years now, with hundreds of kg of PLA printed, and this is the only thing that I've found that prevents jams.
For this upgrade you'll need the following items:
1.) Phillips #2 screwdriver
2.) Small flat end screwdriver (1/10th inch or 2.5mm tip). These will work: amzn.to/2JOksnV
3.) Assorted metric allen wrenches (1 to 3 mm). I use this set: amzn.to/2Onhwx1
4.) Large pair of slip pliers
5.) Metric socket set
6.) Arctic Silver MK4 thermal grease available at amzn.to/2Ol8Yqo
7.) E3D v6 all-metal heat break available at amzn.to/2JB0ltf
8,) Surgeon's scalpel or metal razor. I use these: amzn.to/2ur91aV
9.) PTFE cutting guide. See www.thingiverse.com/thing:3126464
Summary:
The stock T-Rex 3 comes with a heat break lined with PTFE tubing, which quickly breaks down over time, especially when running at 250C as you would for filaments like nylon or PETG. This is a guide to replacing that heat break with an all metal heat break to eliminate the problems caused when the stock Capricorn tube deforms. The whole process took me about 10 minutes, and I was taking pictures along the way.
Note that an all-metal heat break can cause problems with PLA if you don't know what you are doing. Most importantly, you need to lower your retraction settings to 2mm or less. Increase your print temperature to about 210C on PLA. Last, season your hot end with a few drops of olive oil (I just drop them right on the filament as it enters the extruder) before starting your first couple of prints. Lots of debate on this seasoning tip, but I've been doing this for 5 years now, with hundreds of kg of PLA printed, and this is the only thing that I've found that prevents jams.
For this upgrade you'll need the following items:
1.) Phillips #2 screwdriver
2.) Small flat end screwdriver (1/10th inch or 2.5mm tip). These will work: amzn.to/2JOksnV
3.) Assorted metric allen wrenches (1 to 3 mm). I use this set: amzn.to/2Onhwx1
4.) Large pair of slip pliers
5.) Metric socket set
6.) Arctic Silver MK4 thermal grease available at amzn.to/2Ol8Yqo
7.) E3D v6 all-metal heat break available at amzn.to/2JB0ltf
8,) Surgeon's scalpel or metal razor. I use these: amzn.to/2ur91aV
9.) PTFE cutting guide. See www.thingiverse.com/thing:3126464
4. Remove the cooling fans assembly and disconnect the plugs. (Remember to pay attention to where they go. If you forget, the plug labeled fan0 (1st extruder) or fan1 (2nd extruder) is for the hot end cooling fan.
To make this job easier, at this point I'd recommend removing the nozzle. Heat up the hot end to 230C, grip the heating block with a large pair of pliers, and use a socket to remove the nozzle. Don't burn yourself! After removing the nozzle, let everything cool down before going further. |
6. Loosen the two set screws circled in red (don't remove them) and your hot end should now slide out the bottom. Be careful as this might still be hot.
You now should be able to unscrew the heater block from the heat break / cooling fins. One of these will loosen up first, and then you'll probably have to use a pair of pliers to unscrew the heat break. |
8. You'll need to cut your PTFE tube to length because it won't go in as far to the new heat break. You'll need a scalpel for this. I cut mine to 33mm. Try to do a better job than I did in this picture and get your cut square to the tube, not at an angle.
You can make a cutting guide. See www.thingiverse.com/thing:3126464 |
10. Screw the thermal block back on to the heat break, leaving a bit of room as shown.
Next, tighten the the nozzle back on to the thermal block all the way, then back it off by one full turn. Hold the fins in one hand and the thermal block in the other, and screw these together fairly tight. You don't really want to use a wrench here because you can damage your heat break. Install the hot end assembly back into the extruder, tighten up the set screws, and connect up the heater wires. This is where I then heat up the hot end again, hold the heater block with slip pliers, and tighten up the nozzle the rest of the way. At this point, just reverse your steps to assemble. |